Added by Tobin Akehurst
This will take you at least 3-4 days, with some serious Class 3 climbing. But the reward is incredible camping and views.
The typical approach to the SE Buttress is from Indian Basin, probably because it is easier, provided you plan on going to Indian Basin anyway. However, if you plan on visiting Titcomb or climbing Gannett peak via Bonney Pass, I suggest approaching from Lower (Southern) Titcomb Lake. I thought it was more fun, challenging, and scenic.
The first step is to hike to 14 miles to Titcomb Basin. From about halfway along the east shore of Lower Titcomb Lake, look NE to identify a notch in the ridge separating you from Mistake Lake. It is identifiable by a long leftward grassy ledge the leads to the notch, which typically has a protruding snow tongue, even late in summer.
The south shore of Mistake Lake offers some of the best camp spots in Titcomb Basin. They are large, flat and wind sheltered, but remember to pitch your tent the required 200ft from the lake. Watch sunrise from the lakeshore before you leave.
Then work your way up grassy ledges to the ridge top. Follow the ridge to climbers left, then ascend the obvious, steep rock gully to the notch in Fremont's SE ridge. There is now a rise in the ridge separating you from the base of the buttress, GO OVER IT. You gain and lose some elevation but it is such a nice ridge walk, with incredible views on both sides, so just do it. Now you are at the base of the buttress proper. Climb it for a while, take the class 4 slabs instead of the trail for some extra fun, then you arrive at the top.
- Normal Backpacking Gear
- Bring an Ice Axe if snow is present
- No special equipment needed for this climb
- Outfitters in the area can horse-pack your gear in ahead of you
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Backpacking, Camping, Chillin, Hiking, Photography, Rock Climbing
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