Sandstone Bouldering at Stone Farm

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Likely the closest outdoor bouldering you will find in London! 

Having moved to London recently, I found the big sprawling metropolis and constant grey skies quite suffocating. Luckily, after some research we located a small, but accessible crag to the south of London, near Gatwick Airport! Perfect to find some respite from the bustle of the city + some sick sandstone bouldering (be prepared for lots of slick slopers, some pockets, very bad feet).

How to get there: 

  • It can be reached by public transport (take Southern rail and 84 Bus + walking), but we opted to rent a car, as it is about the same cost (or cheaper), as train tickets are expensive. Also: driving is faster.
  • Either rent car in the city or rent at Gatwick Airport. Car rental is cheaper at the airport, but the savings are offset by the train tickets.
  • Turn into Admiral's Bridge Lane, there will be a small turnout with enough parking for maybe 4 cars. 
  • Walk up North on West Hoathly Road maybe 100m max, you will find an easily spotted trailhead on the West side of the road. Walk along trail another 5 min, and there will be a sign declaring this area as "Stone Farm Rocks" with a few rules regarding how to set up toprope anchors (Yes, you can toprope here!). All the boulders can be found concentrated behind the sign.
  • Pick a boulder and start crushing!

Pack List

Crash pad(s) (We also met some climbers who used a yoga mat as crash pad, the landings are quite good.)

Water

Layers! (especially in the winter) It gets pretty warm with the sun, even in the winter, but as soon as the sun sets, temperatures will hit freezing.

Brushing is not allowed on the sandstone here due to its fragile nature (that's quite significant, as many holds were wet and/or mossy when we went there).

There is a guide book titled "Southern Sandstone Bouldering". 

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Activities Rock Climbing
Skill Level Beginner
Season Year Round
Features
Forest
Scenic

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