Rock Climb at Lake Mineral Wells State Park

Details

Route Type

Out-and-Back

Added by Zachary Heiliger

The closest outdoor climbing destination to Dallas/Ft. Worth (approx. 1 hour)! This nearby crag is about as easy as going to your local climbing gym, but this place offers amazing views of Lake Mineral Wells in the process!

Lake Mineral Wells State Park is located about an hour West of the Dallas/Ft. Worth Metroplex. Highway driving gets you all the way to the park's entrance just minutes before entering the town of Mineral Wells. Entrance Fee and Climber Registration is required at the guard shack. Climbing topo and trail maps are available in the Visitors Center. Driving into the park, you will drive towards Lake Mineral Wells. At the Dam, turn right (East) following the main road all the way around to the end where there is a parking lot and Day-use picnic areas. The trailhead for Penitentiary Hollow will be at the far end of the parking lot. A short hike (<0.25 mile) will put you on top of the climbing area. Continue along the trail to a scenic overlook and rock stairs leading down to the base of the climbs. Locate the climbs by following your FREE topo from the Visitors Center.

Rock Climbing: Lake Mineral Wells offers sandstone cliffs for top-rope climbing only. Routes vary in the range of 5.6 to 5.11. Please note that the rock quality is not acceptable for sport or trad. Access to the top of the climbs can vary from straight forward to questionable, involving some sketchy scrambling, use your best judgement when accessing the top in search for anchors! Bolts/Anchors can be found on the top of each climb, typically positioned far back away from the edge into more secure rock. Make sure to bring extra-long webbing for setting anchors, don't be surprised to find a bolt +10ft-15ft back from the edge of the climb. Rappel/Decent chains can be found on the top of most of the climbing walls, refer to the FREE climbing topo for exact locations.

Most Climb: PeeWee's 5.10c Probably the most recognizable climb in the park. This over-hanging climb offers everything from bouldery moves to a fun technical crux in the middle, past the crux you move into the roof section for a sustained pump!

Other Activities: Hiking, Camping, Canoeing, Swimming

Convenient Store & Rentals are available on Lake Mineral Wells

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Rock Climbing
Camping
Hiking
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Dog Friendly
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Lake
Picnic Area
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Leave No Trace

Always practice Leave No Trace ethics on your adventures and follow local regulations. Please explore responsibly!

We want to acknowledge and thank the past, present, and future generations of all Native Nations and Indigenous Peoples whose ancestral lands we travel, explore, and play on.

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