Rock Climb Locomotion in Joshua Tree National Park
San Diego › Locomotion
Added by Liam McNally
Climb in one of America's most incredible National Parks. This is traditional crack climbing with excellent campsites in walking distance.
Locomotion is a great spot to set up for the day and enjoy the world class climbing that Joshua Tree has to offer. Camp at the nearby and coveted Hidden Valley Campground and you'll be within walking distance to Locomotion and a dozen other quality climbing spots. Joshua Tree really is a camping/climbing paradise. If you're not camping but have the luxury of making a day trip to Joshua Tree, park and set up base camp at the Hidden Valley Picnic Area.
The routes offered at Locomotion are perfect for climbing vets to warm up to the gravel-like rock face of Joshua Tree or for newer climbers to get a good introduction to crack climbing. The routes range from easier trad leads in the 5.6 - 5.8 range to some harder top rope routes at 5.10 and above. Be sure to bring a full rack if you plan on trad climbing and use your smaller cams earlier if you can as you'll need the bigger ones up higher. You'll also want to tape up - "gravel-like" is not an exaggeration.
The best part about this spot may be the in-between-climbing-chillin. Although this spot is kind of in the heart of the high traffic hiking/walking paths, it feels very secluded. The climbs all begin in a ~10 foot deep crevice between the main climbing wall and a much smaller wall to the west. There is just enough space down there to set up some chairs and a cooler - an ideal escape from the desert sun in between climbs.
Locomotion is just one of many incredible spots to climb in Joshua Tree and this book is invaluable when it comes to navigating the spot locations and routes.
Getting to Hidden Valley is really simple. When entering from the west and north entrances, just stay on Park Blvd 10-15 miles and you can't miss signs pointing towards Hidden Valley Campground and Day Use Area. Driving from the south is a significantly longer drive at about 50 miles, but just about as simple. Enter the park on Pinto Basin Rd and turn left on Park Blvd after about 40 miles. To find Locomotion once you've parked in Hidden Valley, follow signs to and hike the Nature Trail, keeping an eye out for the distinct rock formation.
- Personal climbing gear
- Full rack of cams
- Long draws
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Camping, Chillin, Rock Climbing
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If you are new to trad climbing, don't be shy about hiring a pro and setting up a good foundation of knowledge to climb responsibly with. :) Annie Semmelroth www.stone-adventures.com
One incredible place to climb and explore
Ask a local or someone who is familiar about the Chasm of Dume!
this is a great spot to warm up to the rough rock in joshua tree
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