Enjoy bouldering in a secluded cove in busy Orange County. Pirates Cove is a beautiful small beach with easy access and many different bouldering routes for all levels of climbers.

This is a great spot for bouldering in Newport Beach, CA with really easy access from the parking lot at Big Corona Beach or street parking above on Ocean Blvd. There are not clear signs to follow, but it is easy to find from the parking lot at Big Corona - it is on the far west side toward the harbor entrance. There is a picture included here to show where the path starts to head over the rocks to Pirate's Cove. Another photo shows the area that you walk through over the rocks to get to the cove that meets up with a staircase to take you down to the beach. The cove is located within the actual harbor, not on the beach side.

The cove itself is really sweet and a great place to hang out and climb. There are bouldering routes all over the rocks as you will see right away from all the chalk marks. It is better to come at low tide because there is more beach to move about on. Also, late in the day is better as the rocks are drier from any morning dew/moisture. The rocks are sandstone type formations with small caves.

Bouldering routes range from V0-7. There is a great list of routes at https://www.mountainproject.com/v/pirates-cove-aka-the-beach-or-corona-del-mar/105924046

Pack List

  • Climbing shoes
  • Chalk
  • Beach gear to hang out for the day
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Activities Rock Climbing
Skill Level Beginner
Season Year Round
Features
Beach
Easy Parking

Reviews

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Overall rating: 

It's Ok

This spot is more of a novelty than a legit climbing spot. Most of the time the holds are clammy. Better to climb in the late afternoon when the Santa Ana's have been blowing all day.


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