Added by Zachary Heiliger
World class granite climbing randomly placed in Southwest Oklahoma! Quartz Mountain (also known as Baldy Point) rises from the flat prairie like a mirage tricking weary climbers, it looks almost too good to be true!
Quartz Mountain (also known as Baldy Point) is a granite paradise for climbers; hosting some of the state's longest and most challenging climbs! Friction is the name of the game here! The routes vary from 5.5 to 5.12 with a mixture of sport and traditional climbs. Don't be surprised if there is a PG13, R, or X rating tagged onto the grade! Gear placement and familiarity with technical friction moves is key here!
The parking lot to Baldy Point is at the following location: Baldy Point Parking, E1460 Road, Lone Wolf, OK 73655 (10 minutes) West of Quartz Mountain State Park. From the parking lot, you will be face-to-face with Baldy Point, a large granite mountain with a smooth wavy face. Follow along access trail to the base of the climbs, some climbing areas require boulder-hopping and scrambling. The most popular climbing areas are Sea of Screams, Snakes Head / S Wall, South America, Atlantic, and Watch Me Wall. If you are feeling adventurous, free-solo the Snakes Head 5.5X (150ft) but be mentally prepared for 'jump' at the end!
A good guidebook is the Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" by Tony Mayse. Campsites are available at Quartz Mountain State Park.
- Guidebook: Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" by Tony Mayse
- Two Ropes (many climbs require 70 meter minimum or two ropes for rappel)
- Trad Rack
- Quick Draws
- Plenty of Water
- Bouldering Pad
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