This route is not marked, riddled with loose rock, and requires climbing on narrow exposed ledges. There are often snow patches on the saddle and an unchecked fall will almost certainly result in a fatality. However, for experienced and well prepared parties this can be one of the most rewarding and exciting adventures in New Zealand.

From the car park you can see your destination, Homer Saddle, about 1600 ft above you and a half mile distant. The route moves over shattered house sized boulders and talus. You may see the occasional, vintage route-marking pole, follow them if you can but most of them have been folded over by rockfall.

Aim for the left side of the col, that is where you will find the narrow ledges and passageways that will allow you to reach the saddle. Be extra careful here and consider turning around if it is wet or snowy. Beyond the ledges a short bit of enjoyable climbing deposits you at the saddle.

Once atop the saddle you can look down the other side 2,700ft vertical feet to Milford Road and across to oceans of vertical granite, streaming with waterfalls.

Climbing north or south along the ridge-top requires the use a rope.