Climb Chapel Pond Slab

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Added by Kyle C

Fun multipitch climbing roadside.

Chapel Pond area is mostly known for its ice climbing on the other side of the pond, but some easier, but runout slab climbing can be had on the eastern side.  There is ample parking on both sides of the road in the form of pull offs and the walk to the base of the climbing is only a few hundred yards.  The climbing consists of routes from low fifth class up to 5.7.  All of the routes are slab climbs and poorly protected on at least one pitch.  The top routes include “Regular Route” and “Empress.”  Both of these will have little protection on certain pitches so this is not recommended for those new to trad as the gear can be tricky when available and the runouts can be 20 feet plus.  A standard rack up to a number 2 camalot will suffice along with a 60m rope.  I brought some C3s and extra small nuts.

Once at the top, you can descend skier’s left down a steep gully.  When I climbed at this area, there were fixed lines to aid in your descent.  If they are not there, two single rope raps will suffice.  I would bring a couple double length slings or some webbing and rings to leave just in case, but this area is climbed so often you will likely not need them.

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