Potrero Chico Parque - Search Nearby - Added by Carter Clark
Virgin Canyon has really high quality climbs with a lot of good shade in the high season
Virgin Canyon is a frequently visited crag in Potrero Chico, with a whole slew of high quality climbs very accessible.
To get there, upon walking into the park you will see the old park swimming pools on your right. Go through the pool area until you find the paved path/steps. Sometimes the gate to get into the pool area is closed. If so, there is a short orange concrete fence that you will hop over. You will be able to tell the spot because it is worn down from the thousands of climbers climbing over it before you. Once you get to the path, the first crag you see is Wonder Wall on your right. Go past this until you are in the middle of the much taller Virgin Canyon. The stairs zig zag you through the canyon, but most of the climbs are on the far wall of the canyon. There are a few on the near wall (being the opposite side of Wonder Wall) and there are paths to those routes as well.
The canyon is split up between Upper and Lower Virgin Canyon in guidebooks. Like always, it is smart to have a guide book while climbing here. Climbs are anywhere between 1 and 4 pitches, with grades from 5.7 to 5.13. As is everywhere in Potrero Chico, this is a bolted canyon for sport climbing.
At times there is a highline set up here. To get to it, you will follow the stairs up until the concrete lookout landing and then scramble up to its start. Ask around to fellow climbers/slackers to see whose line it is and if its okay to try to send it.
You can spend loads of time in this crag. Be sure to check out the classic routes Mugre Mugre, Mexico in Flames, Don Quixote and El Balota.
