Added by Christian Lanley
- Largest selection of beginner to expert routes on pocketed volcanic rock near Los Angeles
- Mostly sport as well as top rope/bouldering
- Climb at famous filming locations from 'Planet of the Apes' as well as 'M.A.S.H.'
- Swim/cliff jump into a water hole
A great day trip! Referred to by many as the "Yosemite of Southern California," Malibu Creek offers a huge selection of bolted sport routes on generously pocketed volcanic rock. This is the perfect place to bring a first time climber or even your most seasoned climbing buddies. Routes range from 5.5 all the way up to 5.14, with many of the parks routes having been put up by John Long and his dirtbag crew back in the day. The Planet of the Apes wall is a very popular spot, and has some great top rope availability at all levels of experience. Once passed Planet of the Apes you will hit the rock pool, where an easy traverse gets you access into the main climbing crags, or a nice little cliff jump if you're up for a swim. Some park classics include Mr. Big (5.10d), Gorgeous (5.10a), The Drifter (5.12a), and Ghetto Blaster (5.13b).
There are also numerous trails throughout the park, most of which are displayed on a map at the base of the main parking lot. From the parking lot (see map) there is a dirt road that will take you to the campgrounds, to almost any trailhead, and to the different climbing spots. It's very hard to get lost once you're on the road. As mentioned, there are plenty of maps in the park, but this one is helpful for planning ahead.
- Day pack
- Sunscreen, bug spray, lip balm
- Climbing gear (quickdraws, rope, slings, carabiners)
- Water/ food (snacks)
- Lunch if planning to picnic
- Hiking shoes/boots
Please respect the places you find on The Outbound.
Always practice Leave No Trace ethics on your adventures. Be aware of local regulations and don't damage these amazing places for the sake of a photograph. Learn More
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