Rock Climb Tectonic Wall in Muir Valley

North Trailhead - Search Nearby - Added by Katie Johnstone

Tectonic Wall is a great area to climb for those looking to get on some really nice 5.10s! It is very close to Johnny's Wall, which is another great area for 5.10s.

Directions to Muir Valley (from Miguel's Pizza)Drive south on KY 11 for 6.3 miles. Turn left onto KY 715. Stay on this road for 2.7 miles. Turn right onto road 2016. Stay on this road for 1.4 miles. Keep an eye out for a carpet store on your right. Once you pass the carpet store, the road will start to go downhill. Take the first gravel road on the left. Follow the gravel road for 0.7 miles, bearing left at the fork. This will take you into the parking area for Muir Valley. 

There is a $10 fee to park. If there is not a staff member working the kiosk, there is an honor system with instructions on how you can still pay. 

Hiking to Tectonic Wall
Start walking down the gravel drive from the lower parking lot (to the left of the shelter). Take the path to the left. Once you come to the bottom of the valley go straight and cross the bridge that goes over the creek. Take the trail to the right, which winds up a hill and comes out in between Tectonic Wall and Johnny's Wall. Go left and you will see Tectonic Wall.

Tectonic Wall
This climbing area is great for those looking to climb 5.10s and experience the "RRG forearm pump." The two most popular routes are Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky and Plate Tectonics. This area is mostly shaded, making the rock face cold when temperatures aren't very hot. It is located around the corner from Johnny's Wall, another great area with a lot of 5.10s.

Each route is marked near the bottom of the rock face on a silver circle. The information provided below is a brief overview of each route. It is a good idea to purchase a guide book, which will provide more detail about each route. I use the Red River Gorge South, Volume 2 by Ray Ellington guide book. It is a great investment because it covers more areas than just Muir Valley. However, you can purchase guide books that are only for Muir Valley. They sell them at the small kiosk in the parking area.

These routes are in order from left to right.

  1. Lidar (5.8)
    1. Trad route 
    2. 80 ft.
  2. Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky (5.10b, 4 star)
    1. 6 bolts
    2. 60 ft.
  3. Plate Tectonics (5.10a, 4 star)
    1. 6 bolts
    2. 65 ft.
    3. This route is closer to a 5.9+
  4. Fifth Bolt Faith (5.10c, 3 star)
    1. 6 bolts
    2. 55 ft.
  5. Continental Drift (5.7, 2 star)
    1. 3 bolts
    2. 80 ft.
  6. Tall Cool One (5.9, 3 star)
    1. 6 bolts
    2. 60 ft.
  7. Paraplegic Power (5.7, 2 star)
    1. Trad route
    2. 60 ft.

There are a few other routes located to the left of Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky. They are not in the Red River Gorge South guide book, but can be found on Mountain Project.

After climbing be sure you practice leave no trace ethics.

Tags

Rock Climbing
Hiking
Easy Parking
Family Friendly
Forest
Groups
Scenic
Wildflowers

Stay Nearby

Salt Lick, Kentucky

Zilpo Daniel Boone Nat. For.

Clearfield, Kentucky

Twin Knobs Campground

Clearfield, Kentucky

Boat Gunnel Group Campground

Buckhorn, Kentucky

Buckhorn Campground

Nearby Adventures

Backpack Chimney Top Loop

10.7 Miles Round Trip - 40 ft gain

Hike to Natural Bridge and Battleship Rock

2 Miles Round Trip - 400 ft gain

Hike to Whittleton Arch

2 Miles Round Trip - 280 ft gain

More Nearby Adventures

Reviews

Leave a Review

Overall rating:  Rate this Adventure

Have you done this adventure? Be the first to leave a review!