Rock Climb Bruise Brothers in Muir Valley

Out-and-Back Trail

Muir Valley Parking - Search Nearby - Added by Katie Johnstone

Bruise Brothers is a great place for beginners and intermediates to climb, especially if it is your first time climbing outdoors. Bruise Brothers is located in Muir Valley, which is one of the most popular climbing destinations in North America, with over 40,000 visitors each year.

Directions to Muir Valley (from Miguel's Pizza)
Drive south on KY 11 for 6.3 miles. Turn left onto KY 715. Stay on this road for 2.7 miles. Turn right onto road 2016. Stay on this road for 1.4 miles. Keep an eye out for a carpet store on your right. Once you pass the carpet store, the road will start to go downhill. Take the first gravel road on the left. Follow the gravel road for 0.7 miles, bearing left at the fork. This will take you into the parking area for Muir Valley. 

There is a $10 fee to park. If there is not a staff member working the kiosk, there is an honor system with instructions on how you can still pay. 

This area gets very busy on the weekends so park efficiently so the lot can hold the maximum number of cars.

Hiking to Bruise Brothers
Start walking down the gravel drive from the lower parking lot (to the left of the shelter). The gravel area will turn into a trail, which will lead you down into a valley. Once you are in the valley take a right and you will continue on a trail that crosses a bridge. The trail will then lead you up to the climbing area. When you see the first rock face on the left, you can go up a set of stairs to some nice, easy routes. If you are a beginner or new to lead climbing, this is a good place to start. If you are looking to climb some harder routes continue past the stairs and you will shortly be at another rock face.

Bruise Brothers Wall
This wall receives an excellent amount of sunlight and the routes stay dry in the rain. This area does get crowded. Each route is marked near the bottom of the rock face on a silver circle. The information provided below is a brief overview of each route. It is a good idea to purchase a guide book, which will provide more detail about each route. I use the Red River Gorge South, Volume 2 by Ray Ellington guide book. It is a great investment because it covers more areas than just Muir Valley. However, you can purchase guide books that are only for Muir Valley. They sell them at the small kiosk in the parking area.

These routes are in order from left to right.

  1. Dirt in Eye (5.7, 1 star)
    1. Trad route 
    2. 60 ft.
  2. Pine Needle Shuffle (5.6)
    1. Trad route
    2. 50 ft.
  3. Redriveroutdoors.com (5.10a, 2 star)
    1. 4 bolts
    2. 40 ft.
  4. Redeye Brew (5.8, 2 star)
    1. 5 bolts
    2. 45 ft.
  5. Flutterby Blue (5.9, 3 star)
    1. 5 bolts
    2. 40 ft.
  6. Tomthievery aka The Sultan Returns (5.8, 3 star)
    1. Trad Route
    2. 50 ft.
  7. Stay Off the Radio Jeff! (5.9+, 2 stars)
    1. 6 bolts
    2. 50 ft.
  8. The Bee's Business (5.7, 3 stars)
    1. 6 bolts
    2. 50 ft.
  9. Sweet Jane (5.8-, 2 stars)
    1. Trad route
    2. 50 ft.
  10. Trundling Kentucky (5.7, 2 stars)
    1. 5 bolts
    2. 50 ft.
  11. Hey There, Fancy Pants (5.10c, 3 stars)
    1. 5 bolts
    2. 55 ft.
  12. Jungle Trundler (5.11a, 3 stars)
    1. 6 bolts
    2. 60 ft.
  13. Little Viper (5.10b, 3 stars)
    1. 6 bolts
    2. 50 ft.
  14. CH4 (5.7, 2 stars)
    1. 3 bolts
    2. 30 ft.
  15. Rising (5.11a, 3 stars)
    1. 3 bolts
    2. 30 ft.
  16. A-Beano (5.7, 2 stars)
    1. 3 bolts
    2. 30 ft.
  17. Immodium AD (5.7, 2 stars)
    1. Trad route
    2. 30 ft.
  18. Don't Take Yer Guns to Town (5.10c, 3 stars)
    1. 5 bolts
    2. 50 ft.
  19. The Offering (5.7, 3 stars)
    1. 5 bolts
    2. 45 ft.
  20. The P. Heist Rockway to Heaven (5.6, 2 stars)
    1. Trad route
    2. 60 ft.
  21. Put the Best Foot Forward (5.8, 3 stars)
    1. Trad route
    2. 55 ft.
  22. Get on the Good Foot (5.8, 3 stars)
    1. Trad route
    2. 60 ft.
  23. Send Me on My Way (5.9-, 4 stars) 
    1. 9 bolts
    2. 75 ft.
    3. A highly recommended route!
  24. Workin' for the Weekend (5.10c, 3 stars)
    1. 8 bolts
    2. 70 ft.
  25. Return of the Manimal (5.10d, 4 stars)
    1. 10 bolts 
    2. 85 ft.
  26. Critters on the Cliff (5.10d, 4 stars)
    1. 9 bolts
    2. 75 ft.
  27. Rat Stew (5.10a, 4 stars)
    1. 9 bolts
    2. 75 ft.

After climbing be sure you practice leave no trace ethics.

Tags

Fitness
Rock Climbing
Hiking
Bathrooms
Easy Parking
Family Friendly
Forest
Groups
Picnic Area
Scenic
Wildflowers

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