Camp and Climb at Breadloaves in City of Rocks

There aren’t too many places that offer up the isolation, serenity, and climbing abundance that City of Rocks does. As soon as you enter in the park, your eyes will be jumping from one rock formation to another, battling with yourself as to where to start! We stopped into the visitor center to pick the brains of the rangers on where the best place to set camp close to epic climbing.

Without hesitation, they pointed us towards the Breadloaves area, also known as Upper City. There are a few campsites right up against the rock, including one large group site. Check out the NPS site here for all the info you need about camping. These sites are mostly tucked up against the rock in which you can find over 100 routes, varying in all skill levels and types.

One of the best features about the Breadloaves area is that it is East/West facing, allowing you to chase the shade for most of the day, as well as it makes for some epic sunset/moonlight climbing! 

For some amazing sunset climbing opportunities for differing skill levels, take a walk around to the East side of the rock and check these two classic climbs out.   

• Mystery Achievement – A 5.7 insanely fun and well-protected sport route that cruises for 110ft of climbing glory. The crux is the very last move where you need to pull yourself over the final bulge.
• Bloody Fingers – A 5.10 trad climb that many consider to be the best in the park! As everyone agreed with the beta you can find, the toughest part is right at the beginning, throwing your head for a loop!

In the morning, before the sun gets too high, check out Upper Breadloaves for some climbing options, namely Built for Comfort (5.9) & Muffin Top (5.8) to kick off your day!