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Climb the South East Ridge of Lady MacDonald

Canmore, Alberta


Added by Tam McTavish

The South East Ridge of Lady Mac is one of the best introductory alpine climbs. With some of the Rockies best ridge climbing mixed with a couple pitches of easier 5.4-5.6 climbing, it follows a very aesthetic line along a ridge that connects directly with the false Summit of Lady Mac.

Lady Macdonalds South East ridge is a route that has grown in popularity in recent years thanks to it's proximity to Canmore, intro level alpine climbing, and wonderful views. The Rockies Central Guidebook has the best images and descriptions of this specific climb

This route starts in Cougar Creek parking lot. This is the same lot used for Cougar Creek, and Lady Mac. 

Proceed up the creek, moving past the closer sport crags, about 30-40 minutes up the trail. Just past Cosmology Crag, but before Canadian Forks  Crag is a small cairn that veers steeply up the hill to the left.  It sits roughly at 51.06'19n 115.18'02 'w

From here is a grind up steep unconsolidated goat paths. The popularity of the route has been improving the trail mind you. Eventually you well get to a first band. Take the solid rock up the face here and gain a slight ridge. This leads you back to a big scree bash upwards, and upwards.

Eventually it you'll get to the first technical rock climbing pitch. While steep it's juggy, and protects better then the rest of the pitches. From here it is pretty easy progression onto the ridge, along some beautiful narrow ridge climbing.

Eventually you arrive a bit of a gendarme, and you descend to the east of the ridge, taking a slab pitch up it's back on the ridge. Easy walking takes you to the final section of 5th class climbing and you top out just beyond the main path to the false summit of lady Mac

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Rock Climbing
Easy Parking
Cliff Jumping

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