Sport Climbing at Milton Reimer's Ranch
Features
About this place
Dense collection of limestone sport climbing, different styles of climbing from overhanging to vertical, and a wide variety of difficulty from 5.4 to 5.14a. This is a newly opened climbing area with potential for development and the climbing walls are near a lake, so that you can just jump in on a hot day.
Milton Reimer's Ranch is a limestone sport-climbing crag in Dripping Springs, Texas near Austin, Texas with hundreds of routes. The park is divided into two main sections--Reimer's and North Shore, each with their own parking lot. Approaches are quite easy and well marked. The original Reimer's area is older and more developed, with a higher density of difficult climbs. North Shore area was opened in 2012, and has loads of developed routes along its 2000-foot wide cliff.
Both areas offer many climbs for beginners to try, including the classic 5.8 Eight Flake in Reimer’s proper. There are an abundance of moderate climbs in both sectors of the park. Reimer’s proper has climbs as difficult at 5.14a, and North Shore has climbs as difficult as 5.13b. The park is well suited for every climber from the complete beginner to the experienced pro. With a little pre-reading in the guidebook it’s easy to find walls that will have climbs for every skill level in your group.
One wall that you absolutely can’t miss is the Sex Cave. At the entrance of Reimer’s Proper you’ll walk past a completely horizontal roof with some amazing tufas and a rock feature termed the uvula. This area offers some fantastic, unique climbing from 5.11d to upper 5.13. The most obvious line is the mega-classic Liposuction 5.12a that climbs through the horizontal roof and uvula and up an overhanding face.
If you’re climbing on a hot day, be sure to hop in the lake after you done to cool off. If you’re brave enough you can climb to the top of ‘World’s Greatest Boulder’ and jump off into the water.
Guidebooks for the area can be purchased at any Austin outdoor stores or online. Guiding services regularly take climbers on trips to Reimer’s. Guides are not provided through the park service, but you can find many different guiding companies online or through local gyms. Dogs are allowed at the park but must be kept on a leash. There is a $10 per car fee to enter the park.
Pictures courtesy of Celine Boulenger (@celineclimbs)
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