Driving the ice road to Aklavik, NWT, and beyond

The community of Aklavik, with a population of about 640, is located in the vast delta of the Mackenzie River. It was established because of the extremely good fur trapping in the area (most notably muskrats), and the Hudson's Bay Company established a trading post there in 1912. Disastrous flooding for several years in the 1950s resulted in the construction of a new community, Inuvik, on high ground to the east of the delta, and Aklavik was supposed to die. But it didn't. The community's motto today is "Never Say Die."

For most of the year, getting to Aklavik is difficult and/or expensive, by air or boat, but in the winter, a network of roads is plowed on the myriad channels of the Mackenzie. Late March or early April, with the extreme temperatures of mid-winter moderating, is a great time to undertake this unique adventure.

The ice road from Inuvik to Aklavik is 116 kilometers / 72 miles long, and a loop can be made by continuing on to Fort MacPherson and then returning to Inuvik on the gravel Dempster Highway. If you want to explore the Aklavik area in depth, accommodations are available at the small Aklavik Inn.

As you leave Inuvik, being on the river provides an excellent look at the many boats and ships that spend the winter there. While the smaller ones are winched up onto the bank, the larger ones are allowed to freeze into the ice - the hulls of those ships are specially strengthened to allow that.

The ice road is a lifeline and is well signed and maintained, but at times you are driving on bare ice, so care, of course, is required. Ensure that you are self-sufficient, can stay warm if your vehicle has problems, and that you can do things like change a tire if need be. There is no cell service - if communications are important to you, carry a satellite device.

Regardless of what the weather is like when you start, prepare for anything. Always carry sunglasses - the glare of sun on snow can cause snow blindness, and it is painful.

The river channels that even the main ice road uses vary from a mile or more wide to only about 50 yards, and the drive is far more interesting than you might think. If you have a compass, you will find that your direction ranges from north to south, with a lot of west.

Don't be in a hurry, and be flexible. If you meet a heavy truck, for example, just pull over and wait a minute or so for the cloud of snow-dust to settle. Having both an open mind and a sense of adventure will ensure that this is a drive you will never forget.