Bouldering in Joe's Valley, UT

Utah Joe's Valley

Added by George Bruce Wilson

Joe's Valley is a mecca for sandstone boulderingThere are good areas right off the highway or opt for a quick hike out of ~10 minutesThere is camping in most canyons as it's BLM LandDuration: Full day or overnight

The bouldering in Joe's Valley has been a hot spot for climbers from all around the world. Discovered by Utah climbers decades ago it has turned into a mecca for anyone who loves sandstone bouldering. The texture of the rock is very grippy and after a long day can leave you with little skin left on your fingers. Plan on having some of your best bouldering days here.

The Valley consists of 3 parts: Left Fork, Right Fork, and New Joe's. Left Fork is the oldest and has the most eel established routes. There are tons of classics in this area and a lot of them are right off the road. Right Fork has many popular areas to climb and even in the summer months there is a newer are much higher in the canyon with decent temps. Most of the areas are right off the road, but there are a couple that will require a 10 min hike. New Joe's is the newest area and is the highest concentrated area out of the three. It is completely separate from the Left Fork canyon and Right Fork canyon. There are boulders everywhere and some of the hardest ones in all of Joe's Valley. This area is also the hottest temperature wise. So if its a pretty cold day in Left and Right Fork, plan on hitting New Joe's up. There are two parking areas one that is fairly high up (see the Newest Guide Book) and one where an oil well used to be, but plan for a full day here as it can be kind of a hike in and around this area.

There is free camping in most of the canyons because it is BLM land, but please practice Leave No Trace camping skills. The closest town is called Orangville, Its tiny and has one store that serves as a one stop that has everything. There are Groceries, Gas, Snacks, Chalk, Guidebooks, Hunting, wifi, pizza place, deli, etc. A quick drive a little further down the road you will find a couple of small restaurants in Castle Dale, UT.

Pack List

  • Camping Gear
  • Climbing gear(Crash Pads, shoes, chalk/bag)
  • Camera
  • Lots of water
  • Bathroom Stuff (Shovel, Toilet paper) But better to pack that crap out ;)
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Activities:

Camping, Chillin, Hiking, Rock Climbing

Skill Level:

Beginner

Season:

Spring, Autumn, Winter

Rating:

Features:

Dog Friendly
Easy Parking
Food Nearby

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How to Get There

2 months ago

World Class Bouldering

Make a trip out of it and go camping and climbing in Joes. Boulders are in walking distance from camp sites.

2 months ago

over 1 year ago

Favorite place in the world :)

over 1 year ago

Added by George Bruce Wilson

I am a professional photographer/Film-maker based out of the beautiful state of Utah. I have always loved being able to create. From luxury furniture to adventure films. Creation is a huge passion of mine as well as the outdoors. Anytime I can't mix those two together, I am thrilled! You can find my work at ThreePeakFilms.com and in social media @threepeakfilms

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