Rock Climb at Unwin Crag

Added by Ryan Mazure

An awesome multi pitch climb just 5 minutes from the Mount Cook Village.

Getting to the Unwin Crag can be more of an adventure than the rock climb itself. You can park at the Unwin Lodge or at the car park at the bottom of the crag. From the lodge you walk towards the Mount Cook Village and you can easily see the 2 small rock faces just above the bush on the left hand side. 

There is a small cairn that marks the entrance to the trail. The trail is very bushy and will require a little bit of bush bashing to reach the bottom of the rock wall. Its a good idea to have a good pair of approach shoes as the terrain is very steep in places and there are some really sharp and prickly plants that will draw blood if you aren't careful. 

Once you reach the bottom of the rock wall there are 4 routes that you can choose from. The first wall you come across has 3 routes and is 25m high. The grades on this wall are all 16 and it is very fun and slabby with not too many juggy hand or foot holds. 

If you continue around to the next wall there is one route - a grade 15 that is 54m high. There are ring bolts at 30m so if you have a 50m rope it'll be too short for this one. Once you do the first pitch, continue up the wall and over the lip to the top. You can't see your companion once you go over the lip so be sure to have good communication. 

There is another route currently being bolted to the right of the route that will be ready sometime in the future. All bolts are near new and in great condition with 2 ring bolts at the top of all routes.

If you would like more information check the link below.

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Rock Climbing


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Overall rating: 

Great Slab Climbing

Good mix of grades on nice rock. Pretty much all slab climbing.

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