Rock Climb at the Quarry

Auburn Cliffs - Search Nearby - Added by Lauren Foltz

An excellent day trip from the Bay Area: jump on some limestone and surround yourself with great company at this roped destination. 

Many thanks to the Climbing Resource Advocates for Greater Sacramento (CRAGS) and the Access Fund for their hard work in re-opening this location to make it climbing-legal. 

Where to Park:
Put in "Parking lot for the Quarry Trail, California 193, Auburn, CA 95603"
This is the designated parking lot that you can park at, though small, to begin your approach to the crags. You also have to pay a $5 or $7 fee to park here. However, if this lot is full, you have other options. Just before coming up on this parking lot you'll notice a long string of cars parked along the side of the Golden Chain Hwy (49) on the right side. Park there and it's FREE. 

Technically, you can climb year round, but I highly recommend climbing at these spots in the spring and autumn months. Why? It's either way too hot in the summer, especially hiking the approach, or way too cold and rainy during the winter months. Your pick, just be prepared.

The distance I put on this adventure is specifically for climbing at the Scale Wall and Memorial Wall area. There's so much to climb in this area, and there's more climbing up ahead if you hike further out, but this listing is for the main quarry location. Also, this place is being developed as we speak, so some routes may not be listed in a guidebook... yet.

**Bathrooms: port-o-potty at the parking lot and another port-o-potty at the Scale Wall / Memorial Wall climbing area. What a relief!**

Approach:
From the beginning of the trailhead at the designated parking lot, you're looking at about a 30 min. - 45 min. walk to the Scale Wall. If you bring your bike, it's about a 10 min. to 15 min. ride over. Roads are wide, mostly exposed and flat in the beginning. However, getting closer to the crag is a little more incline of a hike, but it's short and before you know it, you'll be there.
From the designated parking lot, start on the trail and continue on this for about 1.5 miles down the trail. At the fork-like structure with a very wide trail heading straight up a steep hill right of the main trail, walk another 150 yards to the first fork, then go right. Follow this wide trail through another bend to the left, then you'll pop out at the entrance of the crag, greeted by Scale Wall and Memorial Wall. 

This is a sport (1 pitch) and top rope climbing area.

Some Notable Routes:
M+M (5.8)
Unknown (5.10c)
Short Term Memory (5.10a)
Sneaky (5.10b)
Quirky (5.9)
On Demand (5.11c)

If you're looking for a good place to grab a beer after, hit up Knee Deep Brewing Company about a 15 min. drive from the parking lot. Great beers, food trucks outside, and you can play cornhole.

Distance

2.6 Miles RT

Elevation Gain

800 ft Gain

Type

Out-and-Back

Activities

Rock Climbing, Chillin, Photography, Hiking

Bathrooms
Dog Friendly
Easy Parking
Family Friendly
Forest
Groups
Scenic

Nearby Lodging

From $120/night

Falling Waters Oasis

Grass Valley, California

Placerville KOA

Shingle Springs, California

From $130/night

The Vineyard

Acampo, California

We want to acknowledge and thank the past, present, and future generations of all Native Nations and Indigenous Peoples whose ancestral lands we travel, explore, and play on. Always practice Leave No Trace ethics on your adventures and follow local regulations. Please explore responsibly!

Reviews

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Overall rating: 

Awesome sport climbing

There are some fun options for bolted multi-pitch (just 2-3 pitches at most) deep in the quarry. If it's hot out, hike down and hop in the river afterwards. As mentioned, great day trip from the Bay.

Great Place

This is a great place to climb. All levels welcome and such a fun community on a busy day.

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