Just. Keep. Swimming.

Recently I drove out to Dana Point, along the California coast, with no expectation of what I'd do when I got there. Immediately I noticed that I was surrounded by surf shops, so I strolled into Jack's Surfboards to poke around and see if anything inspired the next move. 

While surfing is a quick go-to for something I'd like to try, I was also considering the size limitations of what I can fit inside of my van, so I opted towards renting a body board and wet suit instead. The suit was itchy and the board a bit beat up, but I figured it'd be enough of a start.

With a great recommendation from an employee at Jack's, I first went out to Doheny Beach where there were multiple sets of waves to select among, from a shallow break, out to a few hundred yards or so for a longer ride. The first few attempts was just putting my dog on the front of the board and seeing how he'd take to it. Nope. He wasn't having it and it wore him out. Bonus!

Later that afternoon, after going back in alone, I struggled like hell to get past the onslaught of waves, where each one would carry me back towards shore, having to work harder and faster to make progress. It was exhausting and made me realize how now out of shape I am. As much as I could, I paid attention to the surfers around me to see how they observed for when to paddle and catch a breaking wave. Or how they'd paddle through and over waves without losing so much ground. Each try resulted in noticeable improvement, a good feeling. The first few attempts of my own to catch a wave were fruitless, however. But then one pushed me forward. Then another carried me all the way in. Then the next I was able to keep my head up and eyes open, seeing what was going on, again carrying me all the way in. Then another where I was able to steer around a little bit. That was it, I found a new hobby! I went back to Jack's, purchased a board, leash, wet suit, bag, then this time to The Strands. 

This time, it felt harder. I was slipping all around my board and couldn't get my bearings. So I went back to my van, loaded up some YouTube videos on "How to Learn to Bodyboard", which gave great tips on technique for catching a wave, swimming out and duck diving, using fins, and more. Then another video that highlighted how to wax your board. Back to Jack's.

Applying a bit of wax made a world of difference, as you can imagine! The fins however, quite frustrating, and the tops of my feet are killing me days later. But together, I managed to snag a few more waves, keeping the growth apparent and making the hard work pay off.

Then came the King Koopa wave. Largest break of the set. And I was just at the breaking face of it, about 3-5 feet too short from where I wanted to be. It took me down, hard. Somersaulting and being held under for what felt like too long, hearing this voice in my head start screaming, "Oh hey, it's time to start breathing now..." and not being given the chance. I ignored the voice, tumbling and waiting, somewhere knowing I'd come back up at some point. I had no choice. Then I came up, and it was no longer fun. I was done.

... for the day.

Since that afternoon, I've gone back for 4 more days, making slow, but noticeable improvement, still struggling, but determined to just. keep. swimming.

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Now, I'm curious: 

(this is the part where I reflect and ask questions)

It's all too common to be inspired to start something... sometimes all it takes is a story, or a photo, or a suggestion. 

But what is it that makes us continue to want to keep doing it, especially when we realize after that first time, that it's frustrating, painful, not as glamorous as it looks, and frankly we suuuuck at it?

Is it because that in that first time, we catch a glimpse of a feeling of it starting to click and want more of that feeling? Is it social pressure, or by force? Is it because we see others serving as models that make it look effortless, and understand it's only a matter of time and dedication? 

There is a learning curve in anything we do that can lead to mastery, or at least enjoying it, but what is it that causes us to latch onto one thing we try, but walk away entirely from another? 

Do you currently have something you're particularly inspired by right now, where you know you're in the early part of the learning curve, but still trying? What is it, and why that thing?