Climb at Maple Canyon

Regardless on whether you're northbound / southbound, jump on I-15 and take exit 225 in Nephi. Head east. Continue on this road (100 N) for 14 miles. Then, turn right on 400 S and after a 1/2 mile turn left onto West Side Road. This road will take you along a bunch of farmlands. After about 6 miles, turn right on Freedom road. Keep to your right, and you'll end up at the mouth of the canyon a few miles later. Drive up the canyon and you'll see different places to pull off. There is a parking lot up the canyon with a bathroom.  A classic warm-up/beginner spot is located right by this main parking lot. The parking lot isn't really big, so be prepared to park on the side of the road. Any car should be able to drive up the road, even if it might be a bit bumpy. 

Most popular, classic routes will not be chossy, but less commonly climbed routes may be a bit chossy so watch out for loose rocks. I would recommend grabbing a Maple Canyon climbing book and just start climbing all the rad climbs you want! This is a world-class destination, so there is climbing for all levels (5.4 - 5.14). The first time I climbed outside, it was at Maple Canyon. This is an awesome book on the area, that I'd highly recommend. 

I like camping on Friday/Saturday and climbing on Saturday/Sunday. There are a few camping areas on the sides of the road up the canyon. It's first come first serve, but I've always been able to find a spot. It's also all technically private property. The property owners have the campsites open for camping use. They encourage to leave donations for upkeep, but other than that, the campsites do not require a permit and they are first-come-first-serve. The campgrounds usually have some type of fire pit and most can fit 1 - 2 tents. Plus, there's very little light pollution, so the stars are amazing. I've also camped along the Nebo Loop Road 30 minutes away and then drove to the climbing area in the morning. The canyon stays pretty cool for climbing all the time, but I think the best climbing is still in late spring and early autumn. 

Essentially, this is a classic climbing spot that has really unique rock compared to the granite, sandstone, and limestone in other climbing areas. I highly recommend anyone to climb in this area.